![]() You may not follow the instructions word for word, but I guarantee you will have better experience if you at least follow the constructions sequence. Seriously, get familiar with where the parts go and the construction sequence. I spent a lot of time on them, so please take a moment to look at the instructions. INSTRUCTIONS, WE DON'T NEED NO STINKING INSTRUCTIONS: Speaking from experience, be careful with the rubber bands as you put them on or take them off, so that you don't break any small detail parts. Use rubber bands for holding walls together and securing roofs to walls while waiting on the glue to dry. You can cut them to length and use them for bracing walls too. I don't have a cheaper tool in my toolbox than toothpicks. I like to apply all my wood glue using a round toothpick with a nice sharp point. Toothpicks and rubber bands are cheap modeling tools and I use both. WEATHERING MATERIALS such as chalk, India Ink mix, etc. ![]() STEEL RULER (optional, but will help with cutting parts from sheets) SQUARES (optional, you may also use laser cut parts or scrap as a square) TWEEZERS (optional, I prefer the squeeze open type to the squeeze closed type) I have also learned from many other builders that have built Blair Line kits and shared their building tips with us-Dale Rush. I have built nearly 300 laser cut wood structures in that time, mostly test kits for my company, Blair Line, but also several other kits for my personal layout too. Listed below are some helpful hints and tricks I have learned over the past 22 years of laser cut wood structure building. Its made of lacquer and is designed to melt and bond with the original surface.How to build a laser cut wood structure by Blair Line It gets heated and applied, and you can buff and polish it for a transparent fix. A lacquer stick would be the best fix in those cases. Its alcohol based ink that does penetrate a bit but it does a poor job. I have used things like a felt pen to cover up dings. It may be some of the pigments in ink are polymers that are also used in wood stains, but I'm no chemist and couldn't tell you for sure without researching it deeply then experimenting. ![]() Don't waste your time and money attempting to reinvent the wheel, its all been tried before. Still you can Google up wood stains and staining and get all the facts right there. Its because they work where others don't. I like others learned much or it from my parents who learned it from theirs. There's a reason you use certain products designed for wood. It seems to be a dieing art and few are willing to take the time to educate themselves. Many people don't know nor appreciate the art of woodworking. You really have to know your woods and what you want your end results to be before you begin. If the hard grain is dark, it may be better to stain the soft pulp lighter leaving the hard pulp darker. If the hard grain is light and the softer pulp is stained, it can give that nice grain effect. The harder grain rejects stain sinking in. Wood stain sinks into the soft wood pulp first. There are cases where you want more contrast in the grain. A darker wood turns darker with additional colors. In these cases they often bleach the wood to make it lighter so they reflect light through the lacquer better. They add pigment to the clear lacquer and get transparent colors so the wood grain shows through them vs. The idea of getting different colors on a guitar body don't normally come from stains in any case. I've done this successfully with regular wood stains, but I still suggest using regular wood stains in any case, Less chance of rejection. You may be able to mix oil based ink with something like Tung oil change its color. Is its not designed to penetrate its not going to permanently bind to the wood. ![]() A guitar body is not a sponge like paper is. Water takes a long time to penetrate wood deeply. Stains use either alcohol or mineral spirits to penetrate the wood quickly and dry quickly. I'd have to say its a bad idea. Just spend $10 at Home Depot buy stain that's designed for wood. A normal ink cartridge cost $30~40 dollars so its an expensive experiment you'll regret. Use the right chemicals for the right jobs If they were, you'd see the image on the back side of paper which is hundreds of times more porous than wood. Inks would either wipe off the wood easily or smudge badly. Oil based ink may take forever to dry and never bind with the wood. Neither oil or water based inks are designed to penetrate. I've worked in the copier business for 35 years with all types of liquid inks.
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